The Sports, Health, Exercise and Fitness Blog

It can sometimes be a bit confusing when trying to determine what type of English or western saddle you wish to purchase. First you’ll want to consider the type of riding that you’ll be doing and which types of events you might like to participate in. For many English equestrians the English saddle type is going to be an essential component to the tack and while there is some overlap in saddle usage there are essential elements each saddle must have. Understanding the features of each of the saddle types will help you understand why each is suited to a particular activity or riding style.

The jumping saddle (also known as a forward seat or hunt seat saddle) is designed to postion the rider forward for balance in going over jumps. This design allows the rider to keep their balance with the dramatic jumping motion of a horse. Because of the more extreme movement involved, a jumping saddle will have a larger kneepad and thigh roll than you’ll find on the more general use, all-purpose saddle. The jumping saddle will have a lot of support and cushion for the rider to support them through this arduous activity.

A very versatile saddle type of a variety of English events from hunt seat to moderate jumping is the English close contact saddle. These saddles have a very flat overall seat and cantle but they do have the slightly forward flaps and stirrup bars to allow the rider to keep the knees slightly bend for posting and jumping. Unlike the jumping saddle the close contact saddle is more like the endurance saddle with very little in the way of thigh roll or kneepad, providing more movement for the rider and an ability to stay in close contact with the horse’s body.

The dressage saddle has been specifically designed for the art of dressage and will have long, straight flaps and less forward strirup bars that positions the rider deep in the saddles with the legs hanging below them. The kneepads and thick rolls are low on the saddle and the seat tends to be deeper than that of a more all-purpose saddle. Dressage saddles can be used for any type of groundwork but are not designed for jumping or hunt type events.

Learning to ride is exciting, but it can also be confusing. Which riding style is best suited for the type of riding you’d like to do. A good place to start is by talking to experienced riders. Find out what they like about each style and see which fits you the best. Becoming competent will take lots of hours in the saddle for either style, and becoming competitive will require even more practice.

If you are going to compete, knowing what you want to do in the competition is essential before choosing a riding style. If you like the more formal style of dressage, hunt seat and saddle seat, than your choice will be the English riding style. But if you’re the more casual type who prefers a comfy pair of jeans, a cowboy hat and loping the trails or competing in the myriad of western competitive events, then the western riding style is for you. You can ride for pleasure on the trails with either style of riding.

Both the events and the riding styles are different with English and Western riding. Riding the western style is a more casual style designed to allow the rider to ride for hours and hours over varied terrain. The stirrups are longer and the rider sits deep in the seat. Western riding also has the reins held in one hand, leaving the other hand free for using a rope. With English riding the rider has shorter stirrups that keep the rider erect and forward in the saddle with reins in both hands. Some English riding will require double reins, one set to direct the motion of the horse and one set to control the head position. English riding also has several different styles including hunt seat, dressage, saddleseat, and endurance. Each of these disciplines has their own style of tack – a dressage saddle, jumping saddle, all purpose saddle, and so on.

Once you make a decision on which style you prefer, make sure you are wearing proper safety equipment, including a riding helmet. This is just a good habit to develop, especially for young and novice riders. When you select a style you can always decide to learn the other style at a later date, after all your horse can certainly learn another style, but learning both at the same time is overwhelming and can lead to confusion.

At first, tacking up can seem daunting, but if you have a set routine, you’ll quickly get the hang of it and your horse will to. Having your horse secured with a set of crossties that fasten to the halter from opposite sides at about normal head height is really helpful as this leaves the rider with both hands to work with the tack.

Don’t be in rush to tack up. Take the time to check your horse over first to make sure he hasn’t incurred any injuries or other problems. Slide your hand down each of the legs, pick up the hooves and be sure to pick out all the dirt, mud or debris using a hoof pick. This will prevent the possibility of riding the horse with a rock in the hoof that can cause lameness, plus if your horse has shoes you can also make sure they are secured and in place. After checking the legs and hooves it is time to brush the back and sides. Ther are a variety of brushes you can use, but the goal is to get rid of all of the loose, dead hair and any dirt or other debris that could irritate your horse when you place the saddle and saddle pad on.

Since the halter is securing the horse to the crossties, you may want to start with the saddle. Place the saddle pad or blanket straight down on the horses back, just on the highest point of the withers and slide it straight back a fraction of an inch to position it. This ensures that the hair is all flat, if you have to reposition the blanket lift it off the horse, smooth down the hair again with a brush or your hand, then start over.

With the saddle pad or blanket in place, pick up the saddle with your left hand on the horn or pommel and the left hand under the back skirt or the cantle, depending on the saddle type. After securing the stirrups (you don’t want to get clunked in the head), place the saddle in onto the saddle pad just behind the withers. Horse’s have a natural depression in their back which is where the saddle should be placed. If you have a western style saddle, reach under the horse’s belly and grasp the cinch, make sure it is straight and tighten the saddle from the left side. With an English saddle you may need to walk around to the right side and affix the cinch, then move back around to the left to tighten it.

Most find bridling a horse the most challenging as many horses have learned to evade and throw their heads to avoid the bit. Moving quietly, slowly and gently will correct this problem. Don’t become agitated or irritated. Unbuckle the throatlatch and noseband if there is one, then standing in the same direction as the horse on the left side, hold the bit in your left hand and the top of the bridle in your right. Slide the top of the bridle up the head, positioning the bit just below the lips. Gentleness counts when inserting the bit. Lift the crown of the bridle over the ears and gently insert the bit. Position both the bit and the headstall in the right place, then latch the throatlatch and noseband. Avoid at all cost hitting your horse’s teeth with the bit. It’s painful and will cause him to be reluctant to be bridled in the future.

Mounting and dismounting should be done in a smooth, fluid manner without excessively yanking on the horse. With the reins in your left hand, grasp your horse’s mane in your right hand. Using the right hand to hold the stirrup, place your left foot in the stirrup, swing your body up and your right leg up and over the back of the horse, gentle sitting down into the saddle. Put the right foot in the right stirrup and you are all ready to go.